Thursday, July 13, 2017

The Alsace wine route

Rows of grapevines as far as the eye can see advancing up towards the mountain forests. Ruins of proud castles from the Middle Ages. Villages surrounded by ramparts. Flower decked streets. Hospitable inns. Joyful wine cellars. Baroque wrought-iron signs. Roman churches and fountains. And last but not least, excellent food and wine.

Those are just some of the unforgettable memories you’ll have after having traveled the Alsace wine route, which winds its way along the eastern foothills of the Vosges, for 170 km, between one gateway at Thann and the other at Marlenheim.

No visit to Alsace is complete without seeing Strasbourg (the capitol) and Colmar. But the true charm lies in the many small towns lining the picturesque Wine Route. A minimum of three days offers the real flavor of the region, its wine and food. Travel by car or on two wheels from town to town at your own pace, parking to explore the small streets lined with quaint homes, restaurants and shops.
Another peaceful and invigorating way to experience the vineyards is to hike or bike on the 20 or more trails that crisscross the region. Marked by numerous information points, each vineyard trail sets out to explain the work of the wine grower, the art of the Alsace wine and the difference between the grape varieties.
Of the seven grapes varieties used for production of wine in Alsace, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Gewurztraminer and Riesling, four are known as noble grapes. Each has its own characteristic.

The Pinot Gris grape produces a full flavored wine that is slightly higher in alcohol content. The Muscat grape produces a sweet, but dry wine. The Gewurztraminer grape also produces a sweet wine, but with a hint of fruity spices. Finally, the most popular is the Riesling grape, which Alsatians take the most pride in producing. The other types of grapes from the region include Pinot Noir (for red and rosé wine), Sylvaner (for house or table wine) and Pinot Blanc (used to make a sparkling wine called the Crémant d'Alsace.

The region is divided into a northern and southern section known as Bas Rhin and Haut Rhine. True wine connoisseurs feel that the wines in the south (Bas Rhin) are the best.  Wine can be sampled in winstuben (wine taverns) in almost every town of the region.
While Alsace is famous for wine, you will also find excellent beer there. Kronenbourg, one of the most popular beers in Europe, is brewed in the region.

Alsace is also a well-known gastronomic region. Main dishes feature pork, chicken and trout, and as might be expected many of them are served with a sauce made from the local wine. Another popular specialty is sausage and choucroute (sauerkraut). Flavorful Munster cheese is a specialty of Alsace, and the region leads France in the production of pâté, with over 50 varieties from the area.
There are over 90 small towns along the AlsaceWine Route, and though most are charming, there are those that have a little extra to offer.
Barr. Castles high on a hill, 17th &18th Century buildings, access to hiking trails, and a Wine Fair in mid July and Harvest Festival the first Sunday of October.
Andlau. Surrounded by three Grand Cru vineyards, it features a Roman Abbey church from the 17th C, easy 2-3 hour hikes to nearby castle ruins, and a Wine fair the first weekend of August.
Dambach-la-Ville. Medieval ramparts, a Roman Gothic church, an easy 2 hour hike to castle ruins, a Grand cru vineyard trail, and a Wine Fair on August 14th and 15th.
Kintzheim. A Medieval castle, many historic fountains “Eagle Aviary”and Monkey Mountain on the way to the Haut Koenigsbourg Castle.
Bergheim- Medieval fortifications with round towers, a Gothic 14th Century church, a small local history museum, and access to vineyard trails.
Ribeauvillé. a very popular tourist town, it is dominated by three castles and surrounded by three Grand Cru vineyards. It also has churches dating to 13th Century, a jewelry museum, a renaissance fountain, and old towers with stork nests.
Riquewihr. The most popular town on the Wine Route is a well-preserved, self contained Medieval / Renaissance city.  Many buildings date back to the 12th Century. There is a stagecoach and postal museum, a Grand Cru vineyard trail, and Reichenstein castle ruins are a 15-minute hike away.
Kayserberg. The birthplace of Dr. Albert Schweitzer has a small museum dedicated to him. There is a river bisecting the town near the 13th C. castle ruins that is crossed by a fortified bridge from 1514. The rest of the town is filled with beautiful Medieval and Renaissance buildings. Known for its Christmas Market.
Turckheim. Reminiscent remains of three rampart gates, a Church dating to the 12th century, vineyard trail for views over the town, and town criers in the summer at 10:00 PM. Wine fair in late July.
Eguisheim- This Medieval city was built in 3 concentric circles around its castle and features historic half-timbered houses, balconies, oriel windows, and pointed gables. Guided visits of vineyard trails are available from the Tourist Office.  A Wine festival is held on the 4th weekend in August.

Haut Koenigsbourg Castle. It is not a town but it is well worth a visit. Built in the 12th century to serve as the residence of several members of the Habsburg dynasty and the German emperor Wilhelm II, the Haut Koenigsbourg Castle is a top sightseeing attraction in Alsace. A great place for the entire family, Medieval times come alive when kids let their imaginations run wild with knights in shining armor. Adults love the views to Switzerland and Germany.

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